Mercedes steering wheel spacer fitting instructions

Valid for the following cars:

The following instructions are valid for the following cars, which all share the same steering wheel spacer, part number starting with MB-…, written on the label inside the black cover, next to the QR code

• AMG GT, SLS and SL-R McLaren
• A Class W176 and W177
• C class W203 , W202 and W205
• E class W211
• SL R129 and CLK W208
• Sprinter W906, W907 and 910

The range of models is so big because Mercedes Benz’s steering wheels from the same production years, despite looking different from the outside, share the same metal core that mates with the steering column and the clockspring assembly, and the steering wheel spacer is basically a replica of the core, with the spline machining and slots.

Basically, we manufacture 2 types of steering wheel spacers for Mercedes vehicles with airbag: 

• for older vehicles up to the early 2000s
• for next generations Mercedes since early 2010s onwards

They share the same spline patttern, and they differ on the shape of the slots: 2 rectangoular slots for the younger generations’ version, 2 irregularly shaped slots on the older Mercedes.

Procedure is the same for both types, with slight intuitive differences you’ll notive yourself at the installation.

WARNINGS

2) Carry out the procedure by disconnecting the battery first, to avoid lights coming on at the end. Please wait 30 min after pulling out the battery negative terminal, to let residual electric power discharge.

3) Better park with straight wheels before starting, because the spline has many little teeth and no marker. So you can easy jump a tooth and find yourself with a perfectly installed spacer at the end, but mis-aligned steering wheel on straights that will require wheel alignment or repeating the installation.

4) Handle cables with care, especially when disconnecting and reconnecting them. Do not pull or use too much force, even accidentally. They all have an elastic safety clip. Take a good look and understand how to unlock the connectors you disconnect. If you pull/push too strongly, you may then hear an annoying “click” from behind the steering wheel at the end of the installation, while turning it while driving, and you have to do the procedure again.

DISASSEMBLE THE STEERING WHEEL

There are many video tutorials on the internet related to disassembling the steering wheel. First check our video tutorial at bottom of the product page you made the order from.

You can also do a more specific search like “A Class W177 steering wheel removal” or “airbag removal”. It will be very useful to familiarize yourself with the procedure. The main steps will be summarized here, but everything will be easier by watching a video first.

Airbag removal

1) Remove the airbag unit from the steering wheel. This is clamped to the steering wheel by 2 lever-type springs. Insert a flathead screwdriver (better to grind it to obtain a C-profile that will make it easier to find the leversand push them) into the holes on the sides of the steering wheel, behind the rim and hidden in the black rubber, made specifically for the extraction of the airbag. It will pop out a few mm right close where you push the lever.

Older Mercedes made until late 2000s, with the irregularly shaped slots, usually have the airbag bolt on the steering wheel frame. Just unscrew them. 

2) Disconnect the connectors present, you can leave the “airbag side” connectors connected, and disconnect everything only from the clockspring side. Place the airbag in a safe place away from children or other persons. Check how the connectors are plugged first. NEVER just pull them hard: counter press the clockspring with the other hand to balance the pulling effort, and unlock the lever-clips first. 

Steering wheel removal

3) Unscrew the central screw of the steering wheel, it is better to get help from someone who holds the steering wheel in place in the meantime. Don’t unscrew it completely: just unlock it to see if the steering wheel slides axially. In fact, after years, it happens that the steering wheel and the steering column “stick” and it could happen that by pulling the steering wheel forcefully, it suddenly unlocks and you can hurt yourself or do damage. The screw acts as a safety stop, and can be removed as soon as you have made sure that the steering wheel slides without any particular force.

INSTALL THE SPACER

Spacer is shipped pre-assembled, but you need to separate the steel shaft from the aluminium part by unscrewing the allen bolts.

5) Insert the  aluminium hub spacer into the steering column, let the connectors on the clockspring match in the corresponding slot, through which the airbag cables and steering wheel controls will have to pass GENTLY. Tighten the OEM steering wheel bolt that was holding the steering wheel in place. 

6) Bolt the steel part on the aluminum hub. 

7) From now on, slide the steering wheel into the spacer as if it were the steering column of your car. At this point of the installation, the spacer reproduces the steering column. Insert and tighten the screw included in the kit. While inserting the steering wheel, run the cables through the corresponding slots and reconnect the wiring harnesses to the clockspring until you hear the click. Respect their orientation and pre align them in the clockspring housing before pushing.

8) Re-insert the airbag into its housing, making sure that this does not compress any wire, otherwise the horn may sound perpetually at the end of the installation. Pre align the airbag into its housing and push it in until it clicks. Bolt on airbags require to re tighten the screws. Don’t tight too strongly, those bolts are tiny.

Reconnect the battery.

If you did everything right:

• there are no warning lights. 
• The stalk levers returns automatically.
• You don’t hear noises or clicks when you turn the wheel.
• Steering effort feels as prior the installation.
• The steering wheel buttons, if available on the car, must all work immediately.
• The horn works.
• The existing steering wheel adjustments (both tilt and depth) works.
• No break-in period is necessary and the steering wheel, when driving, must be as straight as before.
• It may be that at idle the steering wheel vibrates slightly more than before, due to the greater distance from the engine, which is the source of vibrations.

FINISH.